Bangkok Update

Khao San Road, Backpacker Central of Bangkok goes from deserted/misty/dead at sunrise to bustling people-and-merchandise-packed nuthouse by afternoon. The stuff for sale is mostly cheap shit and the street is not the most pleasant. BUT, if you go down to the northwest end of the road, cross the street, take a right and another right at the first street and that is Soi Ram Buttri. It is leafy and quiet because the monastery and its greenery are all along one side of the road. There are some good places to eat here, an oasis. There’s a cafe I like, it’s a large high-ceilinged old colonial-feeling room with fans revolving, with tables on the road and I get iced coffee and watch the very colorful parade of characters go by.

This morning I got a pint of fresh squeezed sweet orange juice for 30 cents and then these little street-made delicate pastries, 30 cents for 10 of them, they were made by dropping spoonfuls of warm coconut pudding into hot fat, I just cannot describe how good they were. There is the most wonderful food everywhere on the streets. Thin strips of grilled beef or chicken, fried fish, corn on cob, papaya salad, 1,000 soup shops, noodles, sticky rice.

Down on the corner are posted maybe 50 notices of persons missing from the Tsunami. Many photos, mug shots of people who disappeared. There’s one sheet with pics of tattoos, photographed on unidentified bodies. Pic of 63-year-old American,“If you have seen our father, please contact…” “David Baumgarten, 11 years old.” “Please help us find little Ragnar, along with pic of one-year old.” As of January 18 there were 4,548 people still missing…

Last night I got drawn into a bar by some good rock and roll. Thai guys doing covers. “You don’t know what it’s like…” “You’re always on my mind…” Chuck Berry. The music was a little crude but they had the spirit nailed. A 60s-year-old gringo came up and did a killer job on “Hound Dog.” The band did a great “Full Moon on the Rise” — they were channeling Credence … everyone in the room was having fun…