Tuning In to Big City

I walked down Khao San Road a few hours before sunrise and it looked so bleak. Pungent smells. The energy was gone from the day. My hotel, The Buddy Lodge is great. About $40 per night. Tile floors in lobby, polished wood floors in room, cool roof pool. Showered and rested and then got out to see the city come to life with sunrise. Walking around in a big city can suck if you can’t figure how to get off fume-clogged streets. I never did figure that out in Athens, just couldn't get very far on foot. So this morning, I wandered down Khao San (noted for the backpackers that hang out here — there are hundreds). It’s a phenomenon we don't have in America. People of all ages (but mostly young) carrying their luggage balanced on their backs. Got out on busy exhausty boulevard for too long before ducking into a narrow alley. About 7 AM and here was the coffee man. Sat down and had iced cappucino and carefully worked out some routes in the city from the Lonely Planet Bangkok book and a big city map. It really helps and I don’t worry about looking like a tourist, so I plot stuff I’m going to see and then venture forth.

It was quiet in the alley, and women were setting up kitchens, starting the soup for the day. People started moving, manuevering tables and chairs and setting up for biz, and it made me finally feel at home. it was nice in this alley, the coffee was good, the soup smelled good, there were no gringos. Bingo, I was in! The city felt good. The same thing happened to me in Phnom Penh last spring. As the day wore on I wondered the streets and alleys, canvassing for an internet cafe. meal options, and general orientation. Beautiful food is everywhere. I had a half a papaya from a vendor to start the day with some friendly enzymes. Then found a great airy veranda-type restaurant with high ceilings and spinning fans (no stinkin’ air conditioning) and had pork soup with clear rice noodles, delicious!

Right now I haven’t slept in about 30 hours, and I’ll stay awake until tonight to get on the local cycle. In solo traveling mode you can move very fast. I’m gonna go out now (noon Tuesday Jan 17 on Khao San Road, Bangkok …) and get a tuk-tuk and head for the Monk’s Village, where they have Buddhist amulets, and to Wat Ratchanatda … then a ferry somewhere …